Tides of New Years Eve

It has been raining or should I say down pouring for several days now. The road is a river and full of pot holes—some you can see and some you cannot. I am really enjoying navigating the road with windows down, ABBA playing on the radio, and my hair blowing in the wind. It is better than any video game.

 

I am being entertained on this New Year’s Eve with what the storms have brought in, which is a good thing as my leg is too swollen to walk on thanks to the Christmas Day dog bit.  The high waves have brought us what my neighbor is calling firewood but it sure looks like the remains of someone’s house to me.

View outside of my kitchen

Neighbor's First Attempt to collect Firewood



On-lookers

Mastered



 



Family Talent

I was invited to a family gathering last night.  I was impressed as this family has its own maneaba, which is a traditional meeting hall for a community.  The event was a big deal with an MC and an actual program--even the local nuns were invited. The grandmother had made dancing outfits for her grandchildren and they were so cute. Each child either did a short dance to a clap or performed the Te Mwaie, the traditional dances of Kiribati. Then, there was singing and prayers followed by what everyone was waiting for of course—food.



Worried Sisters

Still Worried



Family Choir



Hot Younger Brother




Undeniable Talent




Real Competitors





Dog Attack on Christmas

A dog that lives in front of or below my house

There are may be more dogs in Tarawa than people. The latest census indicates that there are 4 to 5 dogs per household and today one of them bit me.  I had gone jogging this morning up to the parliament building which is about 3 kms from my house. Just as I a turned around to come back, a dog came running after me. I just kept going and ignored him as this is an everyday occurrence. Nothing has ever happened before but today was different.  The dog bit into my calve and then went for my butt which is when I started screaming and this seemed to have scared him off because he turned around and went home. The wounds don’t hurt that much but my feelings were hurt quite badly and I have to admit that I was feeling pretty sorry for myself. There were plenty of people and cars around but no one stopped to help me. My leg was covered in blood so it is not like it wasn’t obvious that I was hurt. Anyway, they just stared. So I had to keep jogging because my house was 3 kms away and I needed to get my car and drive to the hospital to get a tetanus shot. The only hospital is at the end of island and it takes at least 45 minutes to get there.

So now I have been to the hospital, which was an excursion in itself and gave me something to do on this Christmas day. There didn't appear to be a reception area so I just walked into a room with a patient laying on bed. Someone asked me what was wrong and I told them that I had been bitten by a dog and they helped me right away. I got the shot in the butt and the nurse told me to keep the wounds—I have 3—open so they can heal faster.  I am a little worried though as one hasn’t stopped bleeding for 3 hours now and other people are actually concerned.  A young girl even offered to carry my groceries out to the car for me which was sweet. Fortunately the Internet is working today so I was able to find out that applying ice and pressure helps. I sure hope this works because although the people are nice and the service is free, I would rather avoid the hospital.

They Call Me Imatang





My Road

After work I walk along the road in front of my house in search of fresh produce and the children call out to me. They call me Imatang, which means white foreigner or so I am told. They expect to see me now on this daily scavenger hunt. Some reach out to touch me or try and practice their English but mostly they yell Imatang and laugh. I go daily as what you can find varies so much and you just never know what is going to wind up on the roadside stands. 

The Taiwan government have a garden program here and are teaching people how to grow things. A family that lives near me is raising cherry tomatoes, cabbage leaves, chili peppers, and egg- sized eggplants. They only have a few plants so if you buy a small bag of cherry tomatoes one day, it may take another week or so before they have any more.  

My favorite things to buy are bananas (bananas are not grown on this island though) coconuts, papayas, and pandanus fruits.

Pandanus, papaya, coconut, chillies

Although coconut and papaya trees are everywhere and line the street I walk on, you cannot count on these grocery items being available for purchase. Maybe it is because you have to actually climb trees to get the fruits. I don’t know but if you see something you like, you need to buy it on the spot.  I made the mistake once of walking by the stands thinking I would check out what was ahead and then come back to get what I wanted. Sadly, when I did come back there was nothing left.  Today though I hit the jackpot and purchased a bag of tiny lemons.  I was day dreaming about lemons a few days ago thinking that I would just have to wait until I went home to get one again and then there they were.  I must be lucky because this weekend I found an onion, which I was told by 7 year veteran of Kiribati that finding an onion was an absolute impossibility. 

I now have fresh cherry tomatoes, lemons, chili peppers, and an onion in my possession. Can anyone recommend a good recipe?



Favorite Shop--where I found the lemons

Black Thursday

Men and Women in Black

Today is Black Thursday in Kiribati. Everybody at work wears black even the driver. They actually have a special uniform made just to wear on this day once a week. I am wearing black too. The majority of the population that live in Kiribati are girls and women. This population group suffers from some of the highest levels of sexual and physical gender based violence in the world with 68% of all girls and women reporting abuse.

Wearing black is supposed to remind people of this problem and to help prevent further abuse. Lots of companies have issued special black uniforms to their employees who are mostly males. I did ask today if these Men in Black are the same ones carrying out the abuse but no one knows.


Screaming Pigs

Fishing in Kiribati is world class and many International Game Fishing World Records have been made here. The variety and quality of fish certainly beats any other place I’ve ever been to.  Another selling point is that it is free if you are just willing to throw a net into the sea and scoop up your catch or wade out on to the coral reefs during low tide and spear a lobster or a crab.  Even so, the people of Tarawa prefer pigs. Pigs provide a savory change to the local fish-based diet and are eaten at special occasions like weddings and national holidays and cost $500 a piece.

 

If you are planning to throw a major do and show off your hosting skills, don’t even think about it unless pig is part of the menu.   

Tarawa pigs are relatively small and are black, spotted, white, brown, pink, and combinations of all those colors. They are kept tied to short leases, which are fastened around one of their feet. They are easily spotted alongside the main road tethered in front of houses under papaya and breadfruit trees. Some are kept in small pens no larger than a couple meters squared.  The poor things just can’t move very far so if they get into a fight with another pig and want to get away, they can’t so they scream. Who can blame them.