Trek to North Tarawa

The island of Tarawa is actually a series of island atolls in close proximity. I live in South Tarawa where 5 main islands are connected by causeways. There are many more islands in North Tarawa and because of the labyrinth of crossings from island to island there are no causeways or bridges from Buota all the way to Abaokoro—a distance of about 10 miles. The only way to get to Abaokoro, the capital of North Tarawa, is by boat, on foot during low tide or to swim. I decided to go by foot and make an adventure out of it.   

 I planned my trip carefully so as to be able to make the majority of crossings between islands during low tide. I left South Tarawa in the evening after work when the tide was in so I took a local canoe to the island of Abatao where I spent the night in a Buia—traditional Kiribati house—and waited for the morning low tides.

The trek began on Saturday around 8 a.m.  Villagers came out to meet me along the road and one lady even invited me to her Kava bar. 

I made 2 crossings where the water was up to my waist before reaching Tabuki Retreat Lodge where I stopped for a coffee break and picked up my 2 guides—a brother and sister. I was advised to go with a guide as it is easy to get lost and it is not safe for women to walk alone. As it turned out, I did most of the guiding as my guides had never been to Abaokoro. They were good for company though and at getting refreshments.

We walked to Abaokoro in 3 hours in 90 degree weather. I counted 18 crossings but they seemed to run into another after a while so not sure how accurate I was.  My guides left me to swim as they had to hurry back home before full tide. I wonder if they made it...

I took a canoe back to South Tarawa the next day and then a bus to my home.  I was only gone 2 days but I guess the neighborhood noticed as some children called out to me when I got off the bus, “You Came Back!”